Showing posts with label sheldon brown. Show all posts
Showing posts with label sheldon brown. Show all posts

Saturday, March 01, 2008

Sheldon Brown Memorial Ride in Boston

I won't be there (I'm in Astoria, New York), but maybe some of you near Boston can turn out.

From http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/memorialride.html

Hello All,

As many already know, there will be a Memorial Service for Sheldon this coming Sunday, March 2 at 1:30pm. It will be at the First Unitarian Society of Newton, across the street from Harris Cyclery.

Details and a map link are at www.harriscyclery.com

Prior to the service there will be a memorial ride starting and ending at the shop:

Meet at 10:45 AM in the parking lot behind Harris Cyclery for an informal memorial ride before the service. Departure will be at 11:00. Distance: approximately 25 miles, pace slow to moderate. The ride will go by way of Weston to Water Row in Sudbury (water level permitting!), one of Sheldon's favorite places to ride, and will return by way of Lincoln.

Fixed gears, hub gears, whatever you've got, are all welcome.

Please pass the word.

Elton Pope-Lance Sudbury, MA

Tuesday, February 05, 2008

The death of Sheldon Brown

I was reading P. Lynn Miller's blog and learned of the recent death of Sheldon Brown. He's had a rough year or so.

Sheldon did more for the biking world, especially the web biking world, than anybody. Like many, I learned a lot about bikes and fixing bikes from his website. In terms of specific influences, he was perhaps third only to my parents and Amsterdam. And I never even met the guy. His bike store was too far away in the burbs when I lived in Cambridge, Mass. I emailed him a few time (who hasn't?), I've ordered things from Harris Cycles, but it's the knowledge on his website that will live on. It's comprehensive. If you have a question, any question, odds are you can find an answer. And it's all written with his love for life and bikes.
Rest in peace.

Saturday, November 11, 2006

Sheldon Brown is hurting

I just learned that Sheldon Brown has a bad-case muscular disease. Perhaps a particularly bad kind of M.S. (and even the good cases aren't great).

At some point, he's inspired a whole lot of people on bikes. And anybody who has ever put wrench to bike has looked at his web site, the first source for bike information.

You can read his updates on his health blog.

I feel for him. Having been to hell and back with my wife's emergency heart surgery earlier this year, I know how hard and frustrating it can be to even figure out what's wrong with you. Good luck, Sheldon!

From the very first post on this blog:
Harris Cycles, outside of Boston, sells them and almost everything. They’re perhaps the best bike store in America. Not the least of all because Sheldon Brown works there. He’s undoubtedly the most famous person in the world when it comes to strange, technically, and downright nerdy bike issues.

Don’t believe me? Just type in “‘Sheldon Brown’ bike” into google and you’ll get 22,800 results. By comparison, “Mayor of Boston” gets only 20,500; my name turns out 353 (and they’re not all for me). Sheldon Brown is a true professional (as Ali from Kebab Café defined professional): “somebody who does what he loves and makes enough doing it to support himself.” Sheldon’s website is a treasure trove of everything you could possibly want to know about bicycles.

If you have any questions about the bike terms used here, check out Sheldon Brown’s bike glossary.


November 2006 update: Sheldon still has Mumbles Menino beat: 111,000 to 93,000. I’m still a distant third with 967 hits.

Tuesday, February 07, 2006

Need a city bike and live in a city with big hills?

My friend Jim in San Francisco needs a new bike and doesn’t want to build one himself. Can you blame him? I can’t, especially because his old bike got stolen from outside his house... after I rode it last. And, I hope and assume, locked it with his bad cable lock. My only fear was that the 8-speed nexus hub wouldn't go low enough to handle to hills in San Francisco. Turns out there is no need to fear.

Here’s what I wrote:

Jim,

Even though it’s aluminum, I’ve always had a soft spot for the Milano. $630.

Celeste, by the way, is a sexy manly color. Don’t ever think otherwise.

The Sparta don’t look bad, either, if you want to stick with a derailleur and more traditional mountain bike design.

But the suspension may be theft encouraging. And unless suspension has gotten very cheap, the price seems too cheap for the rest of the bike to be any good.

I just did a little calculating about gears on Sheldon Brown’s website. Bottom line is there’s no reason not to go with the internal hub.

Measured in Gain Ratio (Sheldon’s invention. The numbers don’t really matter except in relation to each other. He says, “5.58 ... means is that for every inch... the pedal travels in its orbit around the bottom bracket, the bicycle will travel 5.58 inches.”).

Basically you plug in crank length, wheel size, and your chainrings (or internal hub) to get a number. Big gears have bigger numbers. So for San Francisco you would want to compare the small number, the granny gear.

On my Bianchi road bike (2 chain rings), the gain ratio goes from 7.8 for 14th speed to 3.1 for 1st gear.

My Bianchi road bike: 7.8 to 3.1
The Bluebird: 7.6 to 2.5
The Screamin’ Salmon (fixed gear): 5.8
The Sparta: 7.5 to 2.2
And the Milano: 7.2 to 2.3

That means the granny gear on the Milano is less than 10% harder than the granny gear on the Sparta (and about 1/3 easier than my Bianchi). You’ll max out of the Milano faster, but how often are trying to peddle to get top speed going down a steep hill?

The Bluebird has higher gears because it uses a 46 tooth front chainring (negated a bit by smaller wheels) while the Milano has 44 teeth. The rear cog on the Nexus 8 is also replaceable. So you add or take away a tooth or 2 there, if you really wanted to. But I’d bet you don’t.

The other weird but cool thing about the Milano is the blinking seat. It’s actually a very good light (unless covered by the tail of your jacket). But it does mark the bike as a bit of a yuppie bike. But fuck it, you’re a bit of a yuppie. But you’ll have to lock the seat to the frame (thus unmarking your bike a bit as a yuppie bike.) I like how the style is called a “cafe racer.” That seems perfect for me.

I rode a Milano in Chicago last year. A cute chick stopped me to ask where she could buy a blinking seat.

It’s an excellent city bike. Go buy one right off the rack. And the internal rear hand brake is great!

Tuesday, May 24, 2005

Fixed Gear. The Screamin' Salmon has a new look!

The Screamin' Salmon has news look!




Of course almost nobody reading this knows the old look. But let me tell you about the Screamin' Salmon. This bike was originally built and named in Boston by my friend Ryan Tacy. It was also ridden by John Gertsen. I underpaid one of them (I think Tacy) back in 1999 and it became mine. It’s the only bike of mine with a name.

It's a fixed-gear bike. I learned to ride this bike in Baltimore. I didn’t bring my Bianchi when I moved to Baltimore in late 1999 so I’d be forced to ride the Salmon. It worked. I rode it to the police academy everyday for 6 months and less so after I had to buy a car. But it was my Baltimore bike.

Then it sat in the Cambridge basement for the past four years (it actually improved a bit as Tacy put some more work into it). It’s not easy to move bikes long distance without a car. I have a bag large enough (and specifically designed) for bikes. And thanks to the Chinatown bus (they don’t care what you throw down there), I finally brought it back about a month ago to its new home in New York City. It’s mine again!

A fixed-gear bike means you can’t coast. When the rear wheel turns, the peddles turn. A little nomenclature: all fixed-gears are one speeds, but most one-speed bikes are not fixed gear. Most bikes are free wheel or free hub, meaning when the rear wheel goes forward, the peddles don’t go with it. And any bike that doesn’t have a derailleur can be called a single track. A single-track bike (it’s not a very common term, I don’t think) can be your old 1-speed, a fixed gear, or an internally shifting bike with many-speeds (like the Bluebird).

And all track bike (racing bikes for track racing) are fixed gears; but not all fixed gears are track bikes. Most fixed gears you see on the street, like the Screamin’ Salmon, are converted road bikes. Now you can actually buy a new fixed gear in a bike store. This is a new development. It shows they’re gaining popularity, but they’ll never be mainstream.

How can you spot a fixed gear? Look at the rear cog. If it looks like a racing bike and it’s only got one cog in the rear (as opposed to a standard “10-speed” setup), it’s probably a fixed gear. But it could just be a one-speed. Next, look if there’s a rear break. Fixed gears don’t have rear brakes. That’s what your legs are for. Many fixed gears don’t a front brake either, but more on that later. Finally, look if the rider stops peddling when he or she slows down. If the rider coast, it’s not a fixed gear.

Finally, look at the rider. Is the rider a white guy with dreads? Is the rider somebody you wouldn’t want to meet in a dark alley? Is the rider somebody you wouldn’t want to date your daughter? Is the rider somebody you’d like to date? If the answer to any of these questions is “yes,” then the bike is probably a fixed gear. If it is a fixed gear and you’re caught staring at it, feel free to give the rider a knowing nod and a sly smile.

Fixed gears are very old-school (I’m talking 19th-Century old-school, not Afrika Bambaataa old-school). Fixed gears are very popular among bike messenger. Fixed gears get you some street props. They’re generally considered hard core. But in general, being able to coast is good. He who invented the freewheel was on to something. So why, you might ask, would anybody want to ride a one-speed fixed-gear bike?

Fixed gears have a couple of big advantages over “normal” bikes:
1) They’re really light. There are no extra parts like deralleures and breaks and shifters.
2) They’re really simple. Because they don’t have extra parts, they really get to the essence of what a bike is about. And there’s less that can break.
3) They’re so efficient to bike. Nothing takes less energy to peddle than a fixed gear. It’s a combination of light and efficient. There’s no wasted effort on your part. What you peddle is what you get. No friction, no noise, just power.
4) They’re really precise and easy to steer at very low speeds. Useful for city riding.
5) They’re great going uphill. Many people find this surprising. I did. People have gears for going uphill. It doesn’t makes sense that a one-speed is better. But fixed gears always pass racing bikes going up hill (and everything passes mountain bikes. I really don’t get why people have mountain bikes with big nobby tires in New York City. It just don’t makes sense). I’m not 100% sure why fixed-gear bikes are so good uphill. But it’s got to do with being light, being efficient, and the fact that you have no choice. Since you can’t downshift, you just have to keep peddling. The ability to zoom uphill, to me, is the main advantage of riding the Screamin’ Salmon. Pretty much the only big hill where I go is the bridge into the City. On a fixed gear, I know that the half-mile Queensboro Bridge uphill will be a piece of cake.
6) You’re much more “at one” with your bike when you’re riding. I don’t want to get too Zen here, but trust me on this one.

Fixed gears also make you a better bike rider. You learn how to ride a bike much better when you can’t coast over bumps and through turns. The first time you ride a fixed gear, it’s tough. You can’t stop peddling. You instinctively try to coast and you almost get thrown by the peddles. The peddles will move you. Momentum is on their side.

When you learn to ride a fixed gear, it’s a little like learning how to ride a bike all over again. And since you don’t forget what you already know, you become a better biker.

But breaking is what tends to define a fixed-gear bike. Many don’t have any brakes. But that’s just dumb. Why not have a front brake? Chains can brake. Rarely. But they can. Why risk it? But most fixed gears, including the Screamin’ Salmon, have a front-wheel brake.

To slow down on a fixed gear you just sort of reverse peddle. You can’t really reverse peddle, of course, as long as you’re moving forward. But you apply force in the backwards direction. To break medium hard you basically stand on the peddle as it’s coming up. It’ll lift you, but you’ll slow it down. A lot.

With a little practice on a fixed-gear, you can also lock your legs and freeze the rear wheel, This slows the bike down with a rear-wheel skid. But I’d just a soon use the front brake for quick stopping. And using the front break lifts the back of the bike up a little, making it easy to lock the rear wheel. Fixed gears require toe clips or bike shoes. Your feet have to stay on them peddles.

If you can't picture this, think of your old Big Wheel (I don't think I ever had one--I was on to "real" tricycles pretty quickly--but I sure thought Big Wheels were cool, especially the skid-inducing read-wheel hand break). Big Wheels are fixed gears, or they would be if they had a gear. You slow down on a fixed gear like you did on your Big Wheel.

I think a fixed gear is safer to ride than a normal bike if you tend to ride fast, like I do. Because the fixed gear is a one-speed, you tend to bike slower on the level roads than you would on a 10-speed. But slow and steady wins the race. And on a fixed gear you also start slowing down a bit earlier.

What’s the downside? Not coasting can be a downside. But really there’s only one: going downhill. It’s not as fun or as fast on a fixed gear. You can’t go too fast downhill, because your legs have to keep up. And it’s not as fun, because you can’t coast after you crest a hill.

Truth be told, if I could only have one bike, I’d take my Bianchi over the Screamin’ Salmon. But the Screamin’ Salmon or any fixed gear is a great second bike. I probably ride it half the time I could take my Bianchi. Especially for short to medium distances.

So what’s the new look? (please excuse the--as Ali G might say--digestion) The handlebars! The Salmon had straight mountain-bike handlebars. I didn’t like them. They were too hard on my arms, especially my wrists. It’s much harder to absorb shock in your arm on straight handlebars and with your fists straight out and horizontal.

I’ve always wanted to try these handlebars. So I ordered me some Moustache Handlebars on e-bay. About $35. And I had to buy a road-bike brake lever (about $20). Along with looking slick, these handlebars give your hands lots of positions, a huge advantage. Because of the multiple hand positions, moustache handlebars aren't great with brakes and shifters (which demand that your hand be on them). But they're perfect for a fixed-gear.

The brake lever is up on top so that I can put my hands anywhere on the bars. And you don't need to keep your hand right on the brake on a fixed gear because your legs are the main brakes. I'll cover the bars with handlebar tape. I have some coming in the post. The only obvious disadvantage to these bars is that they're a bit wide. Not good for sneaking through stopped cars and avoiding side-view mirrors.

And I took off the bar ends for the old handle bars and put them on Katie’s bike. I feel like it’s good charma to put a bit of a old bike on a new bike. Like passing the flame.













The real color is actually a bit more pink than in these pictures.



Want more on fixed-gear bikes?

Of course, Sheldon Brown has something to say about fixed gears.

This a good article from Wired.com. I especially like the comparison between breaking on a fixed-gear with breaking on a Big Wheel. I stole the concept from this piece.

Here's another very good article called the fixed gear purist cult mentality thing. This article reminds me, did I mention how smooth a fixed gear is? Very.

And the fixed-gear gallery.

Finally, a quick "how to."

Monday, March 21, 2005

"Cold Setting"

"Cold setting" (AKA bending) the frame. This is where I bend the frame so that it can fit a rear hub as big as the one I've bought (which is 132mm long between the locknuts).

Have I done this before? Of course not. An astute reader may wonder how I know what the hell I'm doing? Ahhh, I owe it all to Sheldon Brown, a man I've never met. He tells the world how to do things like "cold setting." And tons of other things. If it weren't for his website, I never would have started such a project. Certainly not with confidence.

So what does "cold setting" entail? You stick a piece of wood in there and press down gentle but firmly on the seatpost tube. Then the left (upper, in the picture) dropout gets pushed out (up, in the picture) away from the other dropout.






This spreads the dropouts (where the rear wheel goes). Initially, the dropouts were a (old) standard 128mm.

128 mm spread on the dropouts (the dropout you can't see is below).


I had to spread them to 132mm. That's how big the Shimano Nexus hub is. 2mm more on each side. The dropouts can easily be pulled apart that distance, but you have to give them a little force to permanently spread them. That way it's not a pain everytime you take the wheel on and off (like when you get flat).

After. Now we're at 133mm! Perfect.


The string is a way to make sure that the dropouts are evenly spaced from the center. After a few adjustments, they were.

Wednesday, March 16, 2005

New spoke design?

This is the freshly laced front wheel. I love the curvy spoke pattern. It's only curvy because the spokes haven't been tightened yet. After they're tightened, they'll straighten out and look more normal.

Bicycle wheels are amazing things. I've actually built a few wheels before. It's considered relatively advanced. I find it amazing to take all these little parts, none of which has any rigid strength. And then you put them together to make an amazingly function and strong wheel. If you like wheels, check out this book. The Bicycle Wheel, by Jobst Brandt. It’s a classic, for those into this kind of thing. Sheldon Brown also has a nice article explaining how to build a wheel.


Wednesday, March 09, 2005

I love steel frames

So I bought the hub and started looking on e-bay for a frame. I wanted a used steel frame. I don’t like aluminum frames because they’re too stiff. Steel gives, and riding a steel bike is comfortable. Steel bikes are also prettier. Steel bikes also last longer.

I'm all for choice in bikes. I respect the bike you want to ride. But I don't think anybody really wants to ride an aluminum bike. Yet most people do. I also don't think anybody should ride a bike with a chain guard. Or Fenders. Those are my rules. Everything else is up to you. (but I should point out that my main bike doesn't have a chain guard. Shame on me.)

But aluminum frames are all the rage (at least in America). Bike manufactures are happy to make aluminum because they sell and they can be made with robots welding. Steel is thinner and a good steel frame still needs a caring professional to put it together. A good new frame, such as they sell at Rivendell (if you like bikes, subscribe to their Reader--Each issue is a classic) costs $1,000 to $2,000.

So I wanted a steel frame with a horizontal drop out (vertical drop outs need a derailleur) and eyelets for a rear rack. The size had to be no bigger than 55cm (measuring the seat post tube from the center of the bottom bracket to the center of the top tube). Zora’s current frame is 55.5cm. My bike is 54cm.

On the new frame, a headset is also a plus, because installing a headset requires a special tool I don’t have.

And the frame has to have drop-out at least 130mm apart (O.L.D. measurement). Many older frames are smaller. Here's the thing about bikes: there are lost of measurements. And there is no single standard. Italians use one system. French another. British a third. And this is just for road bikes. But there is some general US/Continental/Japanese agreement. The rear drop outs are where the wheel goes. The hub I'm going to use has a length of 132. No old frame uses this. But steel can be bent ("cold set" is the proper term) to the new size. This is all stuff I'm learning.

I am also thinking that I will build 26" wheels. Why 26" wheels? Most wheels are 27". Well, there’s a small but dedicated following to a special size of 26" wheels. Here's one. I love the section titled, "Why would someone devote a website to an obscure tire size?" I don't know the answer, but I'm glad he did. And I learned that 650B wheels are still the standard in Sweden. So there. And another, a group in France. It’s also a size used in France. I feel so international.

You see, all 26" wheels are not the same size. Sheldon Brown tells us there are, count 'em, six different sizes of 26-inch wheels. Wheel sizes are really screwed up. In the old days, wheels were measured by the outside diameter of the tire. This is what the inch size refers to.

Of course then there's metric. In general, and only approximately, 27" = 700mm = road bike; 26" = mountain bike. These approximation are fine when you're buying a tube, which can stretch. But these approximations do matter when you're buying a tire, because it has to fit exactly.

The only real way (and the only way to match a tire with a wheel) is to use the ISO measurement. ISO stands for International Organization for Standardization. Guess what they do? Yep. ISO is the diameter of the bead (inner part of the tire, where rubber hits metal). It is in millimeters. Tubes are not sold in ISO. But tires have the ISO printed on them.

So these wheels, known as 650B, have an ISO of 584mm. They are smaller than road wheel (630mm) and bigger than a mountain bike wheel (559mm). Why not just use a mountain bike wheel? Cause I like to be different. No, that might be true, but it's not why. I don't want a small wheel, I just want fender clearance. A road frame with standard road wheels doesn’t have clearance between the wheel and the brakes. These will. And what the hell, if I'm building a custom bike, I minus-well make it special. And 650B wheels can also hold narrow tires, which is good for any bike that isn't riding off-road.

Why not just buy a bike? Well, for starters, there is no steel bike with the Shimano internal-shifting hub. And I want fenders. And I want a chain guard. And these things aren't standard. And it’s surprisingly impossible to just slap such things on a bike that isn’t made to take them. And new bikes are thief magnets. And by building a bike, I'll know the bike inside and out. Not only do I learn, but it will be easier to fix when something goes wrong. And because I'm building a good bike, things will rarely go wrong.

Build a Better Bicycle

It's not that I don't have better things to do, but I decided to build Zora a bicycle. I've never done this before. There are reasons. Her bike needs repairs. Her bike is too big for her. Her chain is slipping. Her brakes are cheap. She can’t shift except with great effort. And if she had a better and lighter bike, she could bike faster, which is more fun for me when I ride with her.

At the very least she would need a new chain, new rear cogs, and perhaps a new chain ring. That’s what happens when your chain gets too old. It stretches out (actually the bushings in the chain wear down, making the chain a bit longer). When it stretches too much, it starts slipping when you peddle, particularly under force. Annoying at best; dangerous at worst.

Each link in a chain should be exactly 1 inch long. If 12 links are shorter than 12 1/8 inch, you should replace the chain. No harm down. Chains are cheap. And unlike other bike technology, chain technology has actually improved tremendously the past decade or so. New chains are great. If the chain gets longer than 12 1/8 inch, then you have to change the rear cogs as well. Cogs wear down with the chain. If you put a new chain on cogs that ran a stretched chain, the new chain will slip. If the chain is longer than 12 1/4 inch, then the chain ring (where the peddles are) should be replaced as well. All that work is a dirty, pain-in-the-ass.

And it's never fun to work on bad bike because 1) the work is harder, and 2) you wonder why you’re putting time and money into something that will never be that good. For instance, Zora’s brakes and kind of screwy and to get the wheel on and off, you have to deflate the tire first. And then her brake pads fall off when you put the wheel back on. It’s just a pain.

Also, Shimano has a new 8-speed internal hub. I have an older shimano 4-speed hub on my folding bike (AKA: the guest bike). I like these hubs. Unlike derailleurs, they’re virtually maintenance free. And they shift really well (unlike old Raleigh 3-speeds).




So I really wanted to build a bike around the Shimano Nexus hub. The downside, it’s not cheap. About $200. And only one or two bike stores sell them. Harris Cycles, outside of Boston, sells them and almost everything. They’re perhaps the best bike store in America. Not the least of all because Sheldon Brown works there. He’s undoubtedly the most famous person in the world when it comes to strange, technically, and downright nerdy bike issues.

Don’t believe me? Just type in “‘Sheldon Brown’ bike” into google and you’ll get 22,800 results. By comparison, “Mayor of Boston” gets only 20,500; my name turns out 353 (and they’re not all for me). Sheldon Brown is a true professional (as Ali from Kebab Café defined professional): “somebody who does what he loves and makes enough doing it to support himself.” Sheldon’s website is a treasure trove of everything you could possibly want to know about bicycles.

If you have any questions about the bike terms used here, check out Sheldon Brown’s bike glossary.

It is March 9th, 2005.